Have you ever wanted to know what all those esoteric tire-related terms in your owner’s manual mean? Well, today’s your lucky day! We’ve made a list of all the terms you might need to know and exactly what they mean. Check it out!

Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in kPa (kilopascal) or psi (pounds per square inch).

Accessory Weight: The combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are automatic transmission, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.

Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.

Belt: A rubber-coated layer of cords between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.

Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.

Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in kPa (kilopascal) or psi pounds per square inch) before a tire has built up heat from driving.

Curb Weight: The weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.

DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production.

GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating.

GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle.

GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle.

Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.

Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.

Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.

Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.

Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.

Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.

Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight.

Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 68 kg (150 lb).

Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.

Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.

Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard.

Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.

Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.

Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.

Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.

Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.

Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1.6 mm (1/16 in) of tread remains.

UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire.

Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 68 kg (150  lb) plus the rated cargo load.

Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.

Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure.

The windshield wipers that rest at the base of your windshield are one of the hidden heroes of your vehicle. Seriously, without them you wouldn’t be able to drive in the rain, get bug splatters off, clean dirt and dust and pollen off the glass, and you certainly wouldn’t be able to drive in winter. But how much do you actually think about your windshield wipers? I’m going to hazard a guess that it’s not a lot, unless something gets stuck in them or you run out of washer fluid. Well, I feel like it’s important to tell you about how to maintain your windshield wipers properly and how to tell when it’s time to replace them. Check it out!

You should take a look at your wipers at least every time you get gas. When you’re inspecting your wiper blades, look for the following:

• Broken frame, which is detachment of frame arms at joints or connection points.
• Metal corrosion, especially at joints and claws.
• Visible cracks, tears, and missing pieces in the rubber squeegee’s edge.
• Flex the rubber squeegee back and forth to see if it is still flexible. Aged squeegees will have difficulty conforming to the shape of your windshield and create streaks.
• Check the squeegee wiping edge for rounded edges which can prevent the wiper blade from making strong contact with the windshield and reduces wipe quality.
• Tug to ensure that the wiper blade has been securely installed on the wiper arm.
• Check to make sure that the squeegee is secure in the wiper frame.

As we (should) know, the materials that your windshield wipers are made of are not ones that will last until the end of time. There are a lot of ways that the world around you can degrade your wipers:

• Sun: Ultraviolet light and ozone deterioration
• Oil: Car waxes and exhaust hold rubber-deteriorating oil
• Airborne debris: Sand, mud, and dust carried in the wind
• Moisture: Acid rain and salt water (in moist air both near the shore and inland)

Now to the signs that your wipers need a change. There are a few to look out for, and if you experience multiple items on this list at once then it’s definitely time to head over to the auto store to buy new wipers.

• Streaking: occurs when the rubber squeegee dries, hardens and cracks. It can also be caused by tree sap, road tar and other foreign substances collected on either the glass or the blade.
• Skipping: occurs when the blade develops a curvature from lack of use (e.g. left in the ‘parked position’ for an extended length of time).
• Wearing: occurs with extensive use and is when the rubber edges are rounded instead of squared.
• Splitting: caused when the sun’s ultraviolet rays penetrate the rubber squeegee, causing it to break down and separate from the frame.
• Bent refill vertebra and bent frames: cause inconsistent contact with the glass surface, creating streaking or skipping.

If you’re wondering how to take care of your wipers throughout their life – i.e. before it’s time to replace them – here’s how you can do that!

• Clean your windshield every time you fill your gas tank.
• Gently wipe the rubber squeegee with a damp paper towel to remove any loose dirt or oil.
• Never use your windshield wipers to de-ice your windshield. Instead, either use an ice scraper or use your defroster to melt snow and ice.
• Pull your wiper blades away from the windshield during winter months to prevent ice build up on the rubber squeegee and to prevent them from sticking to the windshield.

When you’re out shopping for a new vehicle, there’s one step that you absolutely can’t say no to: the test drive. This is crucial for making sure the vehicle you want is actually a good vehicle for you. Sure, you can go off of pictures or just by looking at the vehicle, but you’ll never know if you actually like driving it or if it feels the way you want it to without taking the test drive first. When you’re on the test drive, there are a few questions that you should be asking yourself, and some things that you should test for in the vehicle. A good idea is to bring a friend along to prompt you with these questions, just because it’s easy for thoughts to fly out of your head when you’re enjoying the drive (and focusing on the road). Check out our suggestions for essential test drive questions you should be asking before buying a new car!

How much do you like sitting in the vehicle? Adjust the seat and steering wheel to a comfortable position, then think about these questions: can you see out of all the windows? Check for blind spots and make sure you have the visibility you need.

As you drive, think about the ride in this vehicle. Is it bumpy? Loud? Do you feel like you’re driving on a cloud or like you’re separated from the road by flimsy plywood? Every vehicle has a different ride but make sure that this vehicle meets or exceeds your personal expectations.

Test the acceleration. Can you get up to speed in a reasonable amount of time? Always make sure that you are obeying speed limits and driving safely when you are testing the acceleration.

Now it’s time for the handling test. Ask your sales professional to test out a curved road with some hills so that you can really put the handling to the test. How well does the vehicle handle the hills and curves?

Finally, put the brakes through their paces. Try out slow stops, fast stops, stops on hills, and any other types of stops you can think of. Every vehicle brakes differently, so make sure that the brakes work the way they should.

With these questions, you’re equipped with what you need to be able to have the best test drive ever! Have fun!

There’s almost nothing in this world worse than a crowded parking lot – you can’t find a place close up to park, everyone’s driving like a maniac, there are shopping carts EVERYwhere (not to mention senior citizens in the middle of the gosh darn road)… what’s a driver to do? Well, the first step is to get a little bit of parking lot etiquette. As your mother probably told you, manners matter! That doesn’t only apply to the dinner table or social situations either. It also works for the parking lot! Take a look at our list of parking lot etiquette rules to live by, and then share them with everyone you know to help make the world a better place, one parking lot at a time.

1. Make sure your car is pulled into the space far enough, but not too far. If you have a normal-size car, pull your vehicle all the way into the space so the rear of your car is in line with other cars. This makes it easier for other drivers to see past your car when they are backing out of adjacent spaces, and also gives the widest possible driving lane between rows. Pulling in properly is particularly helpful when shoppers pushing loaded carts are sharing the driving lane with moving vehicles. If you drive a super small vehicle, park so that the back end of your car is in line with the cars beside you. This lets drivers know that the space is occupied and does not give a false impression that the parking spot is vacant.
2. Never force your car into a space that’s too small. Standard parking spaces are generally 9 feet wide while compact car spaces are only 7 feet wide and shorter. Obviously, a large SUV or pickup will not fit easily in a compact car space. Quite simply put, they are not supposed to fit.
3. Watch for pedestrian crosswalks in parking lots. Crosswalks are common near the main entrances and exits of most large garages and lots. Created for the safety of pedestrians coming from and returning to their cars, they are usually marked with diagonal white or yellow stripes and often marked with a pedestrian crossing or stop sign.  As much as you are in a hurry to find a spot, slow down. Watch for pedestrians and obey all signs in the parking lot.
4. Park straight in a parking space. In a parking lot or garage where cars are parked in slots, leave room on each side so you can open your doors without hitting the cars beside you. Park in the middle of a marked parking space. Overhanging the stripes will crowd the driver who parks next to you will inevitably lead to door dings in the paint.
5. Don’t straddle a line and take up two spaces in a parking lot or garage. Some people with new cars or those who don’t want to risk having their car’s sides banged by adjacent car doors will park in the middle of two spaces. This is not only rude; it also makes it impossible for others to park at all.  Crowded garages and lots need every space.
6. Take your turn when waiting for a parking place. In a crowded parking garage or lot, when you see someone pulling out of a space, get as close as you can and turn on your turn signal to let other drivers know you have “dibs” on the space.  If another car is close to the space and has its turn signal on already, you lose! The other car gets the space. If you and another driver both think you found the space first, be generous and let it go. A parking space is not worth a fight.  Another spot will be vacant soon.
7. Make your intentions clear when walking in a parking lot. If you’re walking back to your car and you sense a car crawling down the aisle behind you, don’t assume they’re sightseeing. They want your parking space!
8. Finally, don’t expect miracles. Even if you are already driving this way, or decide to adopt these courteous practices, don’t expect others to do the same. Be careful of letting your expectations for others’ behavior contribute to your own potential parking lot rage. Take a few deep breaths, and take your time.

This month, our motto is “Savings!” Not only are our prices normally very reasonable and budget-friendly, but every month we feature your favorite Nissan models for much less so that you can get into the car of your dreams and stay within your budget! Check out what we have this month, and then get saving!

First up is the 2018 Nissan Sentra S, a great sedan with all the features you’ve been looking for and the reliability that you expect from a Nissan vehicle. Brand new and with the bells and whistles you want, this is the perfect choice for the young professional, the growing family, the parents, and grandparents – well. It’s perfect for everyone, is what we’re trying to say. Get behind the wheel today for only $15,387, or $107 a month!

Next is the crowd-pleaser – the 2018 Nissan Altima 2.5 S! Attractive, slick, and impeccably styled, this is the car for the person who likes to make an understated statement. And with the fantastic tech that Nissan’s been pioneering in the cockpit, you’ll be connected wherever you go! The 2018 Altima can be yours for only $18,197, or $137 a month if you lease. Get in while the gettin’s good!

Looking for a little more adventure? The 2018 Nissan Rogue Sport SV AWD and the 2018 Nissan Rogue S AWD are two beasts that can’t be tamed. Sure, they look docile and sleek on the city streets, but they shine in the great outdoors. Get into a Rogue Sport for $20,967 (or $147 a month) or the Rogue for $21,957 (or $157 a month). You won’t regret the adventure!

Need something that’s family-friendly but still exciting? How about the 2018 Nissan Murano S AWD or the 2018 Nissan Pathfinder S 4WD? Both are great SUV’s that defy expectations. Packed full of new tech and top-of-the-line safety features, these vehicles are both fantastic choices for any family – or even a single person looking for that feeling of security that comes with driving a great vehicle. The Murano can be yours for $26,847, or $187 a month and the Pathfinder’s priced at $26,967 or $187 a month. Those are some great deals that can’t be beat!

Finally, why not treat yourself to the 2018 Nissan Maxima S? With a fantastic new design featuring a floating roof and windswept headlights, you’ll look like you’re going fast even when you’re parked. And for only $27,377 or $197 a month, you’ll feel good about how much you saved!

Stop in for a test drive today and see why we’ve been voted the area’s best! Give us a call or shop online – we’re here for you!

*Specials expire 5/31/2018. See specials page for details.

With the rain picking up as we transition into the depths of spring, you’re definitely at more risk of hydroplaning and getting into an accident because of the water that can build up on the road. We do not like this, because we know that you love your vehicle and don’t want anything to happen to it, so we’ve got some tips for staying safe on the road, no matter how wet it might be. Just remember to stay calm, breathe through it, and maybe get yourself a taco or some ice cream as a “good job on driving” present to yourself.

When you start to hydroplane, the most important thing you can do is not panic. Don’t brake or accelerate quickly; because hydroplaning is a loss of traction to your front tires, braking will slow your front tires but lock your rear tires, causing you to spin out. Accelerating suddenly can pull your vehicle straight forward, which is dangerous if your vehicle has spun a little and is not pointed straight down the road.

It’s important to not use your cruise control when you are driving in the rain because this can worsen the effects of hydroplaning. The vehicle will register the buildup of water under your tires as a slowing-down and ask for more power from your engine. This will make your car shift to a lower gear (if you’re in an automatic transmission vehicle) and build up more water underneath your tires.

Avoiding hydroplaning is simple: drive slowly in the rain (slow down by about a third of your usual speed) and make sure that your tires have enough tread. A good test to make sure your tread is good is to use a penny. Place the penny into your tire tread with Lincoln’s head facing the direct center of your wheel. If you can see the top of his head, then it’s time to get new tires. The closer you are to being able to see the top of his head, the closer you are to needing new tires. Simple!

Springtime comes with increased rainfall, and we’re hopeful that you’ll drive safely and avoid hydroplaning through safe driving. Do you have questions? Give us a call!